Here are 27 handpicked dry whites, from cool-as-a-mountain stream to a white wine that acts like a red. Prices below are for single bottles and inclusive of all taxes but delivery charges for single bottles can be punishing. Most retailers offer discounts for larger orders and often for mixed dozens. One rosé is included below.

Quinta do Crasto, Crasto Branco 2019 Douro, Portugal 13%Port country is now producing some stunningly lively dry white table wines from characterful local grape varieties, such as this one from so far up the Douro valley the vines are almost in Spain.£10.99 Adnams

Ch Reynon Sauvignon Blanc 2018 Bordeaux 12.5%Brilliant value for a sophisticated, minerally Sauvignon with the subtlest of oak influences from the family of the late Denis Dubourdieu, Bordeaux’s white wine supremo. £11.50 The Wine Society

Herbert Zillinger, Neuland Grüner Veltliner 2019 Weinviertel 11.5%2019 was a great year for Austrian whites and this has a remarkable concentration of spicy flavour and fruit for a wine with only 11.5% alcohol. Great value for a pure cocktail of flowers and white pepper.£13 The Real Wine Co

Dom de l’Idylle, Vieille Vigne 2019 Savoie 11.5%Light, fresh and just the right side of watery because there is so much delicate fruit, with a hint of alpine flowers. Pure Savoie. This would make a lovely aperitif.£13.50 Yapp Bros

Meulenhof, Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese feinherb 2019 Mosel 12.5%Screwcapped. Classic Mosel mineral lift and masses of fruit but with an almost dry finish. It is surprisingly evolved for a one-year-old wine and should already give pleasure. £14.40 Tanners

Barta, Egy Kis Furmint 2019 Tokaj, Hungary 13.5%Furmint is a great grape variety that makes smouldering wines which age beautifully. Racy, nutty, bone dry and with fine acidity. There’s no hurry to drink this beauty from Károly Barta’s vineyards.£14.95 Corney & Barrow

Maturana, Naranjo Torontel 2019 Maule, Chile 13.5%What a story! The Maturanas lost pretty much everything in the 2010 earthquake and have turned to making small-batch, thoroughly 21st-century wines such as this orange one made from aromatic grapes macerated before fermentation. The result is chock-full of flavour and a little chewy but not excessively so.£15.25 Corney & Barrow

Kolonics Juhfark 2018 Somlói, Hungary 13%Like Furmint, Juhfark is a grape native to Hungary though much rarer. Heady, pungent with great texture, this tastes like fireworks in a bottle. No hurry to drink it. A truly local wine with apple flavours, backbone and a future.£16 The Wine Society

Heinrich Naked trocken 2018, Austria 12.5%Screwcapped “natural” blend of mainly Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc given a little skin contact. Full of fruit and pizzazz, this wine is fun and beautifully balanced. Someone here wanted to join the kids but kept a strict eye on what was happening in the (old) barrels. £17.50 The Sourcing Table

Domaine des Dieux Chardonnay 2016 Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, South Africa 13.5%A smart cool-climate Chardonnay. About 30 per cent new oak. A perfect, luxurious but keenly priced alternative to white burgundy with a little bite on the end. Ambitious and refined. Great texture. Delicate.£17.95 Stone, Vine & Sun

Jean-Marc Brocard, Vignobles Ste-Claire Vieilles Vignes 2019 Chablis 13.5%Just a whiff of this is enough to get the saliva really flowing. Lovely stuff. Juicy oyster shells with a good combo of fruit and acidity. Persistent. Quite forward but therefore already approachable.£18 The Wine Society

Domaine des Forges, Le Clos du Papillon 2018 Savennières Loire 14.7% This dry, powerful Chenin Blanc was a wine I kept going back to and it seemed to last in my opened bottle for ages. Made from senior vines, it smells of almonds and tastes of honey but finishes pungent and dry. Thoroughly satisfying to drink with a wide range of foods.£18.95 Stone, Vine & Sun

Lequin-Colin, Back to the Roots Chardonnay 2018 Bourgogne 12.5%Aged in barrel, 10 per cent new, and crafted in an old-fashioned way, with lots of lees stirring. Organically certified (but not mentioned on the label as François Lequin wants the wine to sell on its own merits).£19.50 Stone, Vine & Sun

Cedro do Noval 2019 Douro 13.5%Part of AXA Millésimes and so a stablemate of several smart Bordeaux châteaux. It’s a sophisticated Portuguese dry white with a slightly French accent.£20 various independents

Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon 2018 Mâcon-Bussières 13%The Mâconnais outpost of the Meursault producer Comtes Lafon makes perhaps the best-value white burgundy of all. It’s for the table not the cellar, but this one offers quite enough tension to offset the sunny southern Chardonnay fruit.£20.17 Justerini & Brooks

Dom de la Taille aux Loups, Rémus 2018 Montlouis Loire 12.5%Jacky Blot is the genius of Montlouis who demonstrated how beautiful its Chenin Blanc could be as a dry, oaked wine. This is a stunning example. Nervy and exciting, with apple skins and beeswax and so much flavour packed in, but also with racy acidity.£20.68 Lay & Wheeler, £24.20 Haynes Hanson & Clark

Luigi e Giovanna Barberani 2017 Orvieto Classico Superiore, Italy 12.5%Hugely distinctive Umbrian white with broad, waxy flavours and only just enough acidity, but marvellous texture and personality.£21 The Wine Society

Cathar(tic), Rosé By Any Other Name 2019 IGP Côtes Catalanes 13%Unusual, ageworthy rosé made from barrel-fermented Mourvèdre grapes by wine importer Richard Bray of GB Wine Shippers. Full of fruit with an appetising saline, smoky quality.£21.95 St Andrews Wine Co

Daniel-Etienne Defaix, Vieilles Vignes 2015 Chablis 12.5%Gorgeous, pure, expressive aged Chablis at a great price. See also this producer’s much more mature Vaillons premier cru (£30 Booths).£22.50 Tanners

Eva Fricke Riesling trocken 2019 Rheingau, Germany 12%This dry wine tingles with life and is reminiscent of wildflowers. A great tightrope of tingly fruit and acidity that is nicely judged.£22.95 Berry Bros & Rudd

Domaines Schlumberger, Saering Riesling 2017 Alsace GC 12.5%Real bone-dry Alsace Riesling. A very decent price for a mature wine with just a little softness on the finish and perfect poise.£22.95 Fareham Wine Cellar, £23.94 Four Walls, £27 Noble Green

Ferdinand, Albarino 2018 California 13%Made by Evan Frazier, the assistant winemaker at Kongsgaard, from the most famous grape of north-west Spain grown in Lodi. I can’t see much relationship to the light, marine Albariños of Galicia but it’s a lovely, sumptuous wine with length and well-judged opulence. Polished but with sufficient acidity — for now. Ferdinand’s Garnacha Blanca 2018 (£28.50 from Vin Cognito) is also worthwhile.£24.95 Vin Cognito, £27.99 Thorne Wines

Mas Amiel, Altaïr 2018 Côtes du Roussillon 13.5%Certified organic white from a 60-year-old field blend of Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris and Macabeu. Rich, ripe, heady perfume that speaks initially of plump yellow plums but then on the palate there are exciting pungent mineral notes and some saltiness. This is serious wine. A great white for the table.£26.95 Perfect Cellar

Trimbach, Sélection de Vieilles Vignes Riesling 2017/2016 Alsace 13.5%/13%The 2017 is more concentrated, the 2016 more mature. Both are great-value alternatives to the world-famous Clos Ste Hune. Drink with or without food.£28.50/£29.50 Great Wine Co

Vasse Felix, Heytesbury Chardonnay 2018 Margaret River, Western Australia 13.5%Winemaker Virginia Wilcox is devoted to fermenting each lot of grapes separately and with ambient or wild yeast rather than commercial yeast. She reckons this is one of the finest vintages but has already won national acclaim for previous ones. I think there’s a whiff of the nearby Indian Ocean in this.£42 Specialist Cellars, £45.50 Fareham Wine Cellar

Ramey Chardonnay 2017 Russian River Valley California 14.5% Full and flamboyant on the nose but with admirable leanness and finesse on the palate. Very tight and focused. Super appetising and much drier than most California wines. I’d like to taste this blind alongside a similarly priced white burgundy.£49 Berry Bros & Rudd

Big Basin, Coastview Chardonnay 2016 Monterey California 13.7% From a limestone and granite vineyard 700 metres above sea level in the Gabilan Mountains south of Silicon Valley. Really California and really savoury at the same time with a hint of butterscotch reined in by dried herbs and fresh Monterey acidity. Rich but subtle.£55 Oxford Wine Co

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